May 2, 2025 – Split, Croatia
Our time in Šibenik wrapped up with a breakfast that was almost too good to leave behind. We lingered over the beautiful spread at Armerun Heritage Hotel, sipping complimentary Prosecco and soaking up the last few quiet moments in this gem of a town. Honestly, if we had it to do over again, we would have stolen a day from Split and spent more time in Šibenik instead. It’s that special.
The drive to Split Airport to drop off the rental car was a smooth one. Once there, we had a brief moment of confusion figuring out where to meet our Uber, but we were soon en route to our next home base.
For the next four nights, we were staying inside the ancient walls of Diocletian’s Palace. Yes, inside the palace. We entered through the Silver Gate, descended a short staircase, turned left, and followed a bit of a winding route before finding our apartment. It was slightly confusing the first time, but once you’ve done it, it becomes second nature.
Our condo was a bit dated but spacious and functional. Two bedrooms, a large kitchen, and a washing machine tucked into the bathroom. There was no living room, so our downtime was spent around the dining table. We likely paid a bit more than it was worth, but the location made up for it. Saint Domnius Cathedral was just around the corner. You could hear the bells ringing from our window. We were surrounded by history and right in the heart of Split’s Old Town.
A little background for context: Diocletian’s Palace is one of the best-preserved Roman monuments in the world and a cornerstone of Split’s identity. Built around 305 AD, the palace was intended as a retirement residence for Roman Emperor Diocletian, one of the rare emperors to voluntarily abdicate. He chose this coastal area in Dalmatia for its beauty, climate, and strategic location. The original structure was both a luxurious villa and a heavily fortified military camp, sprawling across 30,000 square meters. Over the centuries, it transformed into a functioning city, with homes, shops, and cafes built right into the ancient stone. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the few places in the world where you can live, dine, and sleep inside a Roman palace.
That first afternoon in Split, we didn’t have much of a plan. The city was buzzing, full of energy and people, so we did what we do best: wandered. We strolled through Republic Square, also known as Prokurative, which was inspired by Venice’s St. Mark’s Square. Framed by neo-Renaissance architecture and open to the sea on one end, it’s a great space for music and events and an excellent shortcut into the livelier parts of town.
Eventually, we found ourselves on the outskirts of Old Town, where we heard restaurants were more local and less touristy. We landed at Anonima Bottega Italiana, a tiny wine bar tucked into a narrow cobblestone street. There were just a few tiny tables spilling into the alleyway. Vespas zipped past at close range, weaving between pedestrians in a way that somehow felt entirely normal. The owner Šime, an ex-soldier turned café host, poured us craft beer while we snacked on small, crunchy bread rings. His warmth and conversation made the moment feel memorable. I am always struck by how Europeans make maneuvering scooters through crowds look effortless.
From there, we took a short three-minute walk to another tucked-away spot, Cicibela Food and Wine Bar, with a proud Croatian wine list. Once again, we sat streetside, watching the world go by. I ordered a peach, prosciutto, and burrata salad topped with pistachios, while Ron went classic with a chicken Caesar salad. It was the perfect, simple dinner to ease into our stay. A couple of glasses of wine later and we began the walk back to our apartment.
Earlier, we’d checked Cruisemapper—a handy tool for planning your day if you’re staying in a place where the arrival of floating cities can quickly flood the streets with crowds. We saw that three cruise ships were scheduled to dock the next morning. Wanting to avoid the heavy crowds, we made a pact to get up early to capture some peaceful photos and explore before things got too busy. We also had a walking tour planned the following day, so it felt like a smart move.
On our way back to the condo, we stumbled across @Noon, a tiny sandwich and wine bar with €4 Aperol Spritzes. In a tourist hotspot like Split, this was an absolute steal. We couldn’t resist. It felt like a little victory to end the day with a cocktail, a quiet street corner, and the sense that we were already settling in.
🗺️ Explore Split with Viator– If planning everything yourself feels a bit overwhelming, our friends at Viator have some great options to take the pressure off. They offer everything from easygoing walking tours right on site to full-day adventures that include travel to and from Riga with plenty to see along the way. We’ve booked through Viator many times and have always had a great experience. It’s a solid choice if you prefer a bit more structure in your travel days, without the hassle of sorting out every little detail on your own.