May 3, 2025 – Split, Croatia

It is morning and the light is hinting at arriving here in Split, Croatia. One of the things I love best when we’re away is waking up just before sunrise to get out and snap pictures without the tourists. Yes, I see the irony here. There’s something magical about having a place almost entirely to yourself. Since our vacation rental was close to Saint Domnius Cathedral, it seemed like the perfect place to start the morning.

The cathedral and its Peristyle square are deserted at this hour, a sharp contrast to the night before when it was packed with students and tourists listening to loud music, drinking, and smoking or vaping. Cushions were scattered on the surrounding steps, creating a lively, buzzing energy. This morning, though, I walk around quietly, completely thunderstruck by how lucky I am to be here alone. I climb two steps and find myself face to face with an ancient black marble sphinx—one of two that remain. The other, sadly headless, sits outside the Baptistery, which was once the Temple of Jupiter. While badly damaged by overzealous Christians hundreds of years ago, it still stands watch. These sphinxes are thought to be around 3,600 years old and are the last of what may have once been a dozen. And here they are, just sitting out in the open. I’m fascinated.

I continue on to the old palace vestibule, now just a roofless cone of stone at the end of the Peristyle. Despite its simplicity, the age and history soaked into its walls inspire awe. After testing the acoustics with a whisper or two, I wind my way through the maze of narrow streets and alleys, popping in and out of nooks and corners that catch my eye.

There are small piazzas perfect for wandering and watching. Down in Narodni Trg, or Pjaca Square as it’s more commonly called, I admire the Romanesque clock tower, medieval sun dial, and old Town Hall. The stones underfoot feel soaked in centuries of stories. I make my way toward the waterfront, hoping to find Ron and grab a coffee before our walking tour begins. I spot him easily, and soon we’re sitting in the sun with our first caffeine hit, the water sparkling just beyond us.

We meet our guide near the 15th-century Venetian Tower, just inside Vocni Trg. Behind us is the 17th-century Milesi Palace with its elegant Baroque façade. Here stands a statue of Marko Marulić, a towering figure in Croatian literature and philosophy. Born in Split, Marulić is credited with being the first to use the word “psychology” in writing. He was well respected across Europe and deeply loved his hometown.

Marulić’s story has a tragic edge. He and his best friend Papalić both fell in love with a young woman from a wealthy family. They would take turns secretly visiting her by climbing a wall to her room. One day, Papalić asked Marulić to swap nights. Marulić agreed, but tragedy followed. That night, guards caught Papalić, who was killed, and the young woman was punished harshly by her father—walled up alive. Marulić lost his closest friend and the woman he loved. Grief-stricken, he left Split and lived out his days in a monastery on the island of Šolta. The statue here was carved by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most prominent sculptor.

Meštrović also created the towering bronze statue of Grgur Ninski, a 10th-century bishop who defied the pope by delivering the Bible in Croatian so everyday people could understand it. Today, his statue stands outside the Golden Gate of Diocletian’s Palace, with one shiny toe rubbed smooth by thousands seeking good luck.

Our guide, born and raised in Split, shares stories of her childhood and speaks with heartfelt pride about her city. She tells us of secret hidden gems, like one of the smallest churches in the world—St. Martin’s—hidden above a gate in the palace walls. Most visitors walk right under it without realizing it’s there. Curious? Check out our post: #ITK in Split: Discovering St. Martin’s Church Hidden in the Palace Walls.

She also points out Game of Thrones filming locations, like where the dragons were kept and the slave revolt took place. We pass the remains of the old palace apartments, right around the corner from our rental. You need a bit of imagination to picture what they once looked like, but it’s still a fascinating stop.

Around noon, we head to the nearby café @noon, and share a deliciously oversized sandwich. The price may seem high at first, but the portion size more than makes up for it.

After the tour, we venture outside the city walls for a little break from the crowds. We end up at Bistro Toć, enjoying a cold beer and a bit of entertainment. Across the street, a group of travelers tries to figure out where their condo rental is. Their rental car is awkwardly parked causing incoming cars to crawl up over the sidewalk to get around, luggage is sprawled in the narrow lane, and for fifteen minutes, there’s a lot of animated talking into phones. Eventually, they realize they’re in the wrong spot, reload their car, and drive off to try again. I can’t help but laugh 😆—Ron and I have absolutely been there.

As the crowds begin to thin, we stroll back to the waterfront and watch cruise passengers rush toward their ship. The city exhales a bit. We grab a couple of glasses of wine at Terminal F and enjoy the view. Then comes the moment that made me feel my age. I ask for the bathroom code, and the young man behind the bar tells me the numbers, followed by “the hashtag.” Ouch 😆.

Once the sun slips below the horizon, we decide to do the same. Until tomorrow, Split.

🗺️ Explore Split with Viator – If planning everything yourself feels a bit overwhelming, our friends at Viator have some great options to take the pressure off. They offer everything from easygoing walking tours right on site to full-day adventures that include travel to and from Riga with plenty to see along the way. We’ve booked through Viator many times and have always had a great experience. It’s a solid choice if you prefer a bit more structure in your travel days, without the hassle of sorting out every little detail on your own.