May 14, 2025 – Waking Up with Dubrovnik: Early Morning Magic and Evening Wine

☀️ Dubrovnik Sunrise and a Day of History

Having checked the sunrise time before heading to bed, my alarm went off exactly 45 minutes beforehand. With visions of wandering a quiet city, I set off determined to capture Dubrovnik’s landmarks without the crowds. For the most part, I succeeded, although the Stradun was lined end-to-end with city worker trucks clattering as they collected garbage, delivered goods, and created general havoc with my photo plans. After a few failed attempts, I moved on.

First stop was Onofrio’s Fountain, built in 1438 by the Neapolitan architect Onofrio della Cava. This great circular fountain was once the endpoint of Dubrovnik’s first aqueduct system, bringing fresh spring water from 12 kilometers away. The fact that you can still refill your bottle here nearly 600 years later is pretty incredible.

From there I climbed the Jesuit Steps, a sweeping 18th-century baroque staircase that leads to St. Ignatius Church and the Jesuit Collegium, once a center of learning in the city. Standing at the top, with its Roman piazza vibe, you can almost forget you are in Dubrovnik at all. Of course, fans of Game of Thrones will recognize the steps instantly from the infamous “Walk of Shame” scene.

The early light at the port was perfect, with the fishing boats and ferries bobbing where galleons once anchored. This harbor was once the beating heart of the Republic of Ragusa, linking it to trade networks across the Adriatic and Mediterranean. Today, while modern boats have replaced medieval fleets, it still buzzes with life.

I then wandered past Saint Blaise’s Church, dedicated to the city’s beloved patron saint who is said to have warned Dubrovnik of a Venetian invasion back in 971. His statue holding a model of the city is everywhere in Dubrovnik, but here, in this richly decorated 18th-century baroque church, it feels especially poignant.

The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary came next. Rebuilt after the catastrophic earthquake of 1667, it stands on layers of history, including an earlier cathedral supposedly funded by Richard the Lionheart after surviving a shipwreck nearby. Its treasury still holds a dazzling collection of relics.

At Sponza Palace, built in the 16th century, I admired the mix of gothic and renaissance styles. Once the customs house, it is now home to the city archives, preserving priceless manuscripts that survived centuries of trade, diplomacy, and even sieges.

Finally, I stopped at the Rector’s Palace, a striking mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque that once served as the seat of Dubrovnik’s government. The Rector ruled for just one month at a time to prevent corruption, and the palace was the heart of decision-making that helped keep Dubrovnik independent for centuries.

A few other early risers had the same idea, but for that first hour or so, it was mostly just me and the workers preparing the city for another busy day.

Later on, Ron and I met up and strolled outside the walls, stopping at a grocery store to grab some essentials for the condo. Hunger eventually led us just outside Ploče Gate to KIBA – Smash Burgers Only, where we had some of the best burgers we’ve had in a while. Food outside the walls is not only excellent but much easier on the wallet, so this place is well worth seeking out.

In the afternoon, we joined a walking tour, which turned out to be a highlight. Our guide explained how and why the walls were built double in some places, the story of Saint Blaise’s patronage, and Dubrovnik’s resilience during the fall of Yugoslavia in the 1990s when the city endured an eight-month siege. It is one thing to walk the streets, but another to hear the stories that bring the stones to life.

Dinner was at Bonsai Sushi and Wok, a cozy little spot specializing in Asian cuisine. We managed to walk in without a reservation, but I would not count on that happening again — the food was too good not to draw a crowd.

On the way back to the condo, we stopped once more at our neighborhood favorite, Bakus Wine Bar, for a couple of glasses and small bites. By this point, excitement was in the air, because Ron’s sister Tami was arriving. She landed just after 9 PM, and we met her at Buža Gate around 10 to guide her back to the condo.

The three of us poured cocktails, settled onto the deck, and talked late into the night, sharing plans, laughter, and that special joy of being together again. With the glow of the city walls in the background, it felt like the perfect start to the next chapter of our Croatian adventure.