With Dubrovnik on the horizon, our last day in Korčula was spent simply wandering the little lanes of Old Town, taking it easy and soaking up the last of its charm. I woke up early to enjoy the streets without any tourists, slipping quietly through alleys that felt centuries old. Every time we tried to walk the city walls, they were closed, though we did spot people up there at times. With no posted hours and no one able to tell us for sure, we just shrugged and accepted it. Some mysteries are part of the experience.

Dinner that evening was at Maha Bar where I tucked into a chicken wrap while Ron went all in on a double smash burger that looked incredible. We capped the night with gelato from aRoma Gelato. I call it indulgence not just because it was pricey, but because it was delicious—silky smooth and worth every kuna.

The next morning we were up early to say goodbye to our cozy apartment and wheel our bags down to the same dock where we had first arrived. A two-hour ferry ride stood between us and Dubrovnik, a city that had been sitting on my bucket list for at least twenty years. I could hardly believe we were finally on our way.

⛴️ We purchased our ferry tickets ahead of time with TP Line Catamaran Ferry. It was super easy from purchase to boarding to arrival!

Our First Day in Dubrovnik: City Walls, Pašticada, and Sunset Wine Above the Old Town

Dubrovnik, often called the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” has roots stretching back to the 7th century when it was founded by refugees fleeing the fall of Epidaurum. Over the centuries, it grew into a powerful maritime republic, rivaling Venice in trade and influence. The city’s massive stone walls, built between the 12th and 17th centuries, still stand strong today, encircling a labyrinth of streets, squares, and palaces that reflect Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. Despite earthquakes and sieges, Dubrovnik has endured as one of Europe’s most stunning fortified cities, and its Old Town is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The ferry pulled into Dubrovnik’s port, which lies well outside the Old Town walls. My romantic vision of seeing turrets rising over the water was dashed, but the excitement remained. That excitement dimmed a little when we ran headfirst into a well-documented local scam. Driving into Old Town is tricky with traffic and parking, so some Uber drivers accept rides and then stall—turning a three-minute wait into fifteen, then thirty—hoping the passenger cancels so they can collect the cancellation fee. Our driver seemed to be doing exactly that.

We refused to give in. Taxi drivers circled, offering to take us for €28, but when our Uber was originally priced at €6.80, that was a hard no. Eventually we noticed an option in the app to switch drivers without canceling. Within minutes, a new driver arrived like an angel, whisking us off toward Old Town while chatting cheerfully. As we approached the walls, our conversation fell quiet. They loomed above us, massive and awe-inspiring. I had known Dubrovnik would be spectacular, but seeing the scale of those towers and fortifications in person was beyond anything I had imagined.

Our vacation rental was near Buža Gate. Since we were early, the hosts had kindly paid for luggage storage, though it turned out to be on the opposite side of town from the apartment itself. To make matters more challenging, our rental sat not too far from the Buža Gate which is at the “top” of Old Town, and getting to the luggage storage was down what felt like an endless staircase. We sighed, picked up our bags, and braved the climb. Later, the young woman at the storage desk let us in on a secret for getting back to our condo by Buža Gate from the main part of town: walk out through Pile Gate and around the city instead of up those 150 stairs. It’s not that I mind the stairs; it’s the accompanying luggage that makes it a bit of a bear so that was a lifesaver of a tip.

Before arriving in Dubrovnik, we had decided to buy the three-day Dubrovnik Pass for €50, which gives you access to most of the city’s museums, the famous walls, as well as the bus line. Considering the walls alone cost €40, it was a fantastic deal. The pass activates only when you first use it, not when you buy it, which makes it even more convenient.

Our first stop was the Franciscan Monastery, home to one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe. Founded in 1317, it still operates today, and wandering its cloisters felt like stepping back in time. Afterwards, we strolled down Stradun, the city’s main street, which was absolutely packed with cruise ship tourists. We decided to simply get the lay of the land, saving our serious exploring for early the next morning when the streets would hopefully be quieter.

By the time we picked up our luggage and checked in, we were smitten with our new home. The apartment was a stunning three-bedroom spread over two levels, with a covered deck offering a postcard-worthy view over Old Town. It was spotless, peaceful, and so close to Buža Gate that we felt like we were part of the city walls themselves. Later, while walking the ramparts, we even spotted our deck from above, which gave us a little thrill.

Dinner that night was at Carmen Trattoria, a small, highly-rated spot where the secret is to show up before six if you want a table. We arrived just in time and settled in. Both Ron and I ordered pašticada, a Dalmatian specialty of beef slow-cooked in wine and spices. It was melt-in-your-mouth tender, paired with delicate pasta. Carmen Trattoria was the perfect place to finally try this dish, and it did not disappoint. And of course we had to try the Pistachio Canneloni for dessert. Yum! The warm service and intimate atmosphere made it one of the standout meals of our trip.

Pašticada, by the way, is considered the crown jewel of Dalmatian cuisine. Traditionally served at weddings and holidays, it has a sweet-and-sour complexity that makes every bite a little celebration.

After dinner, we wandered through the Old Town as the crowds thinned and eventually stopped at Bakus Wine Bar, tucked away on a quiet street. The owner welcomed us like old friends, and we snagged a high table outside for some people-watching. The real gem here, however, was hidden below: a rock-carved wine cellar under the floor. If you go, ask to see it—it’s unforgettable.

We ended the night on our deck, glasses of wine in hand, as the sky shifted from pink to purple to deep night. Swifts darted overhead, and the city below glowed in the lamplight. It was the perfect ending to a day I had been waiting decades for.

✨ Dubrovnik at a Glance

🗺️ Things to See

• City Walls & Towers 🏰
  Walk nearly 2 km of fortifications for sweeping Adriatic views. Go early or late to dodge cruise ship crowds.
• Onofrio’s Fountain 💧
  Built in the 15th century to supply fresh water to the city, this ornate stone fountain still bubbles away at the entrance to Stradun. A favorite meeting point for locals and visitors alike.
• Stradun 🏙️
  The polished marble main street, perfect for coffee, people-watching, and soaking in Old Town life.
• Rector’s Palace 🎨
  Once the seat of power, now a museum showcasing Dubrovnik’s golden age.
• Franciscan Monastery & Pharmacy 💊
  Dating back to 1317, this is one of Europe’s oldest still-operating pharmacies.
• Fort Lovrijenac 🏯
  The “Gibraltar of Dubrovnik,” perched dramatically on a cliff just outside the walls.
• Sponza Palace 📜
  Elegant Gothic-Renaissance palace, now home to the city archives.
• Church of St. Blaise ⛪
  A baroque gem dedicated to Dubrovnik’s patron saint, celebrated each February.
• Jesuit Steps & Jesuit School 🪜
  The sweeping baroque staircase leading up to St. Ignatius Church is one of Dubrovnik’s most photographed spots (and starred in Game of Thrones). At the top sits the Jesuit School, part of a grand architectural ensemble that feels more Roman than Adriatic.

💡 Quick Tip: The Dubrovnik Pass (€50 for 3 days) covers the walls plus most museums. The countdown starts on first use, not purchase. This can be purchased through the city website.

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🍴 Food & Wine

• Pašticada 🍖
  Slow-braised beef marinated in wine and spices — the crown jewel of Dalmatian cuisine.
• Black Risotto (Crni Rižot) 🦑
  Cuttlefish or squid cooked in ink for a rich, briny, jet-black dish.
• Fresh Seafood 🐟
  Grilled fish, octopus salad, and shellfish fresh from the Adriatic.
• Rozata 🍮
  Dubrovnik’s rose-scented twist on crème caramel.

🍇 Wines to Try

• Dingač 🍷 Bold red from Pelješac vineyards.
• Pošip 🥂 Crisp white, originally from Korčula.
• Malvasija Dubrovacka 🌿 Aromatic local white, unique to this region.

💡 Quick Tip: For authentic flavors, eat at a konoba (traditional tavern) where menus are simple, seasonal, and paired with local wines.