May 4 & 5, 2025 – Split, Croatia
Split, For Me, Is Just Not Where It’s At
Our next two days in Split were spent wandering without much of a plan. We had already seen most of the sights on our list, and the weather wasn’t exactly on our side. A bit of rain rolled in, sending us to the little market by the Silver Gate in search of umbrellas. We made another loop through some of the tourist spots, hoping for better photo conditions, and ducked into a sticky bar overlooking the Riva for a beer. Coffees were had at the overpriced cafés below.
Surprisingly, we found two fantastic restaurants for dinner outside the palace walls: Konoba Nevera and Soul Kitchen.
Konoba Nevera is tucked away on Pula Firula, just past the tennis club with its disinterested waiters and distracted influencers. We made a reservation, and I’m glad we did because the place filled up fast. It’s known for seafood and steak, and both lived up to the hype. Our waiter was friendly, warm, and genuinely took the time to chat, make wine suggestions, and help with the menu. There was no rush, just a really comfortable, welcoming vibe. The wine he recommended was excellent, and everything about the meal was just spot on. This is definitely a place worth the short walk. Prices were also fair, as you’d expect when dining outside the main tourist core.
Soul Kitchen takes a more modern approach, blending Croatian ingredients with South American inspiration. The space is large, elegant, and thoughtfully decorated. The staff were helpful and gracious. Ron went for a burger and fries, which looked impressive, but according to him, was just okay. I, on the other hand, ordered the chicken shawarma over quinoa with a pomegranate glaze, and it was fantastic. I clearly won the dinner contest that night.
The last two days in Split brought wind, scattered rain, and not quite enough sun to visit the beaches, although they looked beautiful. We found ourselves returning to our favorite local spot, the charming Cafe Sandwich Bar @Noon. We split sandwiches there for lunch, and wrapped up our evenings with their delightful €4 Aperol Spritzes. We got to know the owner and his son a bit, and it quickly became one of those places you just know is waiting to be discovered by more people. Honestly, such a hidden gem.
Looking to kill some time between rain showers, we paid €12 each to visit the Museum of Illusions. It was entertaining in a kitschy way, but mostly featured optical tricks hanging on the walls. It reminded me of those 3D posters from the 90s — if you unfocus your eyes, you’re supposed to see dolphins. Meh. It was fine, and at least it kept us dry, but it’s not something I’d go out of my way to recommend.
If I’m being honest, and I always will be, Split just didn’t quite land for me. I really wanted to love it. On paper, it sounds amazing — a seaside city with turquoise waters, rich history stretching back over 2,000 years, beaches, charm… but in reality, it felt overwhelmingly crowded. The cruise ships brought in wave after wave of tourists, and the city just didn’t seem able to keep up.
Garbage bins were overflowing into the streets and parks. It felt dirty. It felt chaotic. It just didn’t feel like a place I’d rush to return to. That’s my honest take. I know plenty of people who adore Split, but for me, it missed the mark. 🤷♀️
With a sigh of relief, we turned our faces toward the island of Korčula…
Have you been to Split, Croatia? What were your thoughts and feelings about it? I’m curious if there are others who shared our experience there.
