May 6, 2025 – Brac, Croatia

Exploring Brač: Croatia’s Third-Largest Island (and One Seriously Struggling Rental Car)

It’s 7 AM, and I’m already up and packing for the next leg of our adventure. Ron and I have been going back and forth about how best to explore Brač, Croatia’s third-largest island. At first, we figured we’d just cab it when needed, but the more we looked into it, the more it was starting to look like a one-way ticket to going broke. Brač is much bigger than it appears on the map, and with ferry schedules still light this early in the season, a car was starting to look like a very good idea.

Today’s destination is Supetar, the main town on Brač and where the ferry from Split docks. We’re heading to Bol tomorrow, on the southern coast, and then eventually need to get all the way to Milna, on the western tip, to catch a ferry to Korčula, because the Bol–Korčula line isn’t running yet. Toss in the fact that we love a good aimless detour, and it became clear: we’re renting a car.

But I digress…

We finish packing and say goodbye to our little apartment tucked inside Diocletian’s Palace. We weave our way out through the Silver Gate, past the open-air market already buzzing with vendors setting up for the next wave of cruise ship crowds, and stroll away from the Riva toward the ferry port.

We’re booked on a Jadrolinija ferry; their crossings are frequent and, even out of season, pretty reliable. Our tickets (€6.50 each) don’t list a specific time, which had us slightly on edge. We were told yesterday to just show up for the sailing we wanted, but… let’s just say we weren’t about to roll the dice, so we went early. When we arrived, our tickets were scanned without a hitch and we were sent to Dock 20. Everything is clearly marked and well organized.

The boarding process is a mix of orderly and wild. Foot passengers and cars all loading at the same time, just like in Greece. But unlike the Greek ferries, we took our bags with us upstairs and found the ship to be surprisingly modern and comfortable. We snagged a table, Ron ventured off to scout for coffees, and soon we were gliding away from Split, the city slowly shrinking behind us as the green hills of Brač grew larger ahead.

In less than an hour, we’re pulling into Supetar. We disembark (again, alongside the cars—still wild), and make our way to MB Rent A Car. I was a little hesitant. It’s not a name-brand agency, and €50 a day felt too good to be true. But there was no catch. Unlimited mileage, full insurance, second driver included… they even handed us the keys with a smile and sent us on our way after the world’s fastest vehicle inspection.

Now, let’s talk about the car. If there was ever a vehicle that embodied the phrase “little engine that could (barely),” this was it. A compact box on wheels, clearly not built for hills, hauling luggage, or possibly movement of any kind. We headed out of Supetar, turned up a slope, and our tiny car started gasping like it had been asked to summit Everest. I was honestly afraid we’d have to get out and push.

But we were determined, and so was the car.

Despite its protests, we powered through and made our way across the island, exploring one picture-perfect village after another: Splitska, Dol, Škrip, Pražnica, Selca, and Sumartin. Each with stone churches, winding lanes, and the kind of quiet charm that makes you want to sit down and stay a while.

Splitska is up first. The village dates back to Roman times, when stone was quarried here for construction of—you guessed it—Diocletian’s Palace. The original quarry is just a short walk from the main road. The village was later abandoned in the 13th century due to pirate threats but was resettled in the 1400s. In 1577, local nobleman Mihovil Cerinić built a citadel in the town center to defend against the looming Ottoman threat. Today, it stands as a stone sentinel, echoing the village’s layered past.

Next up: Dol. A tiny inland village with just 130 residents and roads that made our little car whimper. The road, if you can call it that, is single-lane, guardrail-free, and lined with steep drop-offs that made my palms sweat. At one point, we weren’t sure if the road ahead even continued, so I jumped out and ran down to scout the path. Yes, I ran. In the rain. Over slick marble. I guided Ron down the hill as the tires slid and skidded, the edge of the cliff just inches away. We made it—barely—and took a moment to admire the church below and read about the nearby caves that make this area so unique. Honestly, the town is lovely, but we were too shaken to explore further.

Škrip, on the other hand, was a highlight. It’s the oldest continuously inhabited settlement on Brač, with Illyrian roots dating back to 1400 BC. Layers of history are visible everywhere, from Roman mausoleums to medieval graves and the crumbling 16th-century Radojković Tower, which now houses the island’s main museum. We wandered among ancient stones, soaking up the atmosphere and imagining what life here must have been like centuries ago.

Pražnica is another hidden gem, nestled among rolling hills and framed by greenery. Its peaceful atmosphere and charming stone houses make it the kind of place that feels untouched by time. The views of the Adriatic from here are breathtaking.

Eventually, we looped back toward Supetar, our little car miraculously still alive and rolling. We checked into the Aminess Velaris Resort, a short walk from the town center. It’s clean and functional, though it’s lacking a bit of the charm we’ve grown spoiled by. We dropped our bags, parked the car, and set off on foot to explore.

Supetar definitely leans into its resort-town vibe. Waterfront hotels stretch along the road, while the Old Town curls around a horseshoe-shaped harbor filled with bobbing boats and lively cafes. Churches, bars, and restaurants jostle for space and sea views, and everything feels friendly and relaxed.

We visited the Parish Church of the Annunciation, an 18th-century Baroque beauty built on the ruins of an earlier church. Off to the left of the main entrance, there’s a wonderfully preserved early Christian mosaic, remnants of a 6th-century basilica dedicated to Saint Peter. It’s a quiet, awe-inspiring spot tucked away in plain sight.

As the day caught up to us, we did what anyone would do, and we grabbed a couple of craft beers at Beer Garden. The high bench seats made for great people-watching, the food looked amazing (burgers, if you’re wondering), and the staff were warm and chatty. Local cats darted between tables, probably more interested in the food than the ambiance.

Dinner was at Restoran Konoba Vinotoka, and yes, we showed up at the oh-so-Canadian hour of 6 PM, always the first ones through the door. The owner seated us personally and made his recommendations. I went with the beef cheeks and gnocchi. Melt-in-your-mouth amazing. Ron ordered the pasta with prosciutto and truffles, which he described as “decadent” and “dangerously good.” We split a bottle of wine made from the local Plavac Mali grape; deep, bold, and totally worth it.

We ended the evening with cocktails and a sunset stroll before heading back to our room for the night, grateful for a full day of history, heart-racing roads, and unexpectedly delightful detours.

Tomorrow, we head south to Bol. And yes—the little car is coming with us.