May 1, 2025 – Sibenik, Croatia
Up early for one last lovely breakfast at our hotel, Teatro Verdi, in Zadar. We sipped our coffee, said our goodbyes to this charming city with its unique Sea Organ, beautiful Riva promenade, and inviting town squares, then hit the road toward our next stop — Šibenik.
One of the oldest native Croatian towns on the Adriatic, Šibenik was first mentioned in 1066 and later served as a royal residence for King Petar Krešimir IV. Unlike many other coastal cities founded by the Greeks or Romans, Šibenik was established by the Croats themselves. Over the centuries, it grew into an important stronghold, especially during Venetian rule, and today it’s known for its impressive fortresses, cultural heritage, and charming stone streets.
It took us just about an hour of driving along the Dalmatian coast to reach this little gem. The glittering turquoise water kept us company on our right the whole way down. For this stop, we booked a night at the Armerun Heritage Hotel, perched right on the water and perfectly located. Since we only had one night in town, we wanted to make it count.
Šibenik is a maze of narrow lanes, winding alleys, and steep staircases, all kissed by warm salt air. We spent the day happily wandering, climbing, and scouting out the best photo spots. Almost around the corner from our hotel (and yes, up a few stairs) we found the Cathedral of Saint James. This UNESCO World Heritage site was built between 1431 and 1535, and its architecture is a unique blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles. That’s thanks to the three different architects who led the project over its 100-year construction.
Next, we made our way up to the Fortress of St. Michael. This is the oldest of the four fortresses in Šibenik, dating back to the 11th century. The town itself was built around it, and once you reach the top — stairs, lots of stairs — you understand why. The panoramic views are absolutely breathtaking. From one side, you get a perfect overlook of the Cathedral of Saint James; from the other, a sweeping view of the Adriatic and the rooftops of Šibenik climbing up the hillside. Inside the fortress is a modern open-air concert venue, and you can climb to the top for even better views. Sadly, no concerts were scheduled while we were there, but we’d love to return for one. On the back side of the fortress, you’ll spot the St. Anne’s Cemetery, arguably the best final resting place in town given the stunning views.
While we didn’t have time to visit the other three fortresses — St. Nicholas, St. John, and Barone — we’ve made a mental note for next time. Of special interest is St. Nicholas Fortress, recently added to the UNESCO Heritage list. Built in the 16th century by the Venetians to defend against Ottoman attacks, it sits at the sea entrance to Šibenik and once held 32 cannons. It’s named after a Benedictine monastery that previously occupied the islet it now commands.
After a bit more wandering, we were ready for a glass of wine and happily stumbled upon a true gem: Negreena Wine and Salad Bar. The owner welcomed us with open arms and a deep knowledge of Croatian wines. Ron and he hit it off instantly, bonding over their shared love of reds, and soon the tasting began. His passion was infectious, and we left with four bottles, happy hearts, and a twinge of regret that we only had one night in Šibenik. If you find yourself in town, don’t miss this place. Truly special.
Dinner was just up the way at a cozy little restaurant called Medulić. We grabbed a table on the patio, perfect for a bit of people-watching. Ron enjoyed his chicken schnitzel, while I tackled a surprisingly massive Greek salad with chicken. I always get a few strange looks when I ask for chicken on a Greek salad 😂 but I stand by it — delicious.
As the sun dipped below the horizon, we enjoyed one last glass of wine at Buta, one of the restaurants at our hotel. Armerun Heritage also has another restaurant, Bronzin, which has fantastic reviews, though we didn’t get a chance to try it.
Šibenik quietly stole a piece of our hearts. It doesn’t feel overrun with tourists — at least not yet — and it’s full of charm, history, and hidden corners just waiting to be discovered. If you’re in the area, we absolutely recommend staying a night or two. You won’t regret it.
🧭 Explore Sibenik with Viator – If you’re the kind of traveler who feels more at ease with a plan in place, Viator is a great place to start. They offer a wide range of tours that take the guesswork out of exploring a new city — from guided walks to full-day excursions and everything in between. It’s a great option if you’d rather leave the organizing to someone else and just focus on enjoying the experience. We’ve used them often and love how easy they make it to discover the highlights without the stress.