April 16, 2025 – Sarajevo to Zagreb

A Gentle Stopover in Zagreb

It was still dark when we rose to begin our journey to Zagreb, catching a 6:00 AM flight with Croatia Airlines. The flight, surprisingly quiet at just 30% capacity, was smooth and brief—under an hour. Though luggage fees were steep, we were grateful for the ease of travel. Passport control was quick and uneventful, and, much to our relief, picking up our rental car from Alamo was just as seamless. Having had a few unpredictable rental experiences in Europe, we never fully relax until the keys are in hand and we’re safely on the road.

The drive into the city was short—just about 45 minutes—and we arrived at Hotel Jägerhorn, charmingly nestled in Zagreb’s Old Town. While the hotel doesn’t offer on-site parking, they do provide free and secure parking just a few minutes’ walk away, which was much appreciated.

Though we arrived before check-in, we were able to leave our bags and take advantage of the morning light to explore. Zagreb, Croatia’s capital since the 16th century, has long been a cultural and political center, straddling the line between continental and Mediterranean Europe. Today, it’s a city that feels both energetic and in transition. Modern buildings and bustling cafés sit shoulder to shoulder with old cathedrals, baroque facades, and long-standing markets.

As we wandered toward the Zagreb Cathedral—still under reconstruction after losing its spires in the 2020 earthquake—we were struck by how much of the city is currently under renovation. Construction cranes, scaffolding, and the hum of revitalization seem to be around every corner. Still, we managed to take in key landmarks like Ban Josip Jelačić Square, the Dolac Market, and the Strossmayer Promenade—all easily accessible from our hotel and lovely to experience on foot.

Later in the day, we returned to finalize our check-in. Our room at Hotel Jågerhorn was small, but thoughtfully designed and very comfortable. A friendly conversation with the gentleman at the front desk led to a recommendation for dinner that turned out to be a real highlight: Pizzeria Karijola on Vlaška ul. 63–8.

Tucked away from the main tourist routes, Karijola is cozy and relaxed, with a well-curated (and surprisingly affordable) wine list. We shared a pizza straight from the wood-fired oven, and it was exactly what we needed—simple, satisfying, and made with care.

Zagreb was never meant to be more than a stopover on our way from Sarajevo to Bled, Slovenia. After a long day that began before sunrise, we felt no need to extend the evening. Instead, we returned to our room and gratefully sank into bed, thankful for both the calm of the day and the comforts of the journey ahead.