April 28, 2025 – Pula

Exploring Pula

Today we packed up the car and hit the road toward our next stop, Pula.

Driving down the Istrian coast, we couldn’t resist popping into a few towns and villages along the way. We weren’t in a rush, and exploring as we go is half the fun. That’s how we stumbled upon a little place that wasn’t even on our radar, and honestly, those are the best kinds of finds, aren’t they?

The village of Bale is an absolute treasure. Perched on a hilltop, it’s easily accessible by car right up to the edge of the old town. It’s one of those places where time seems to slow down. The narrow stone streets twist through a maze of old houses, each one full of charm. At the center of it all stands the Soardo-Bembo Palace, a beautiful example of Venetian Gothic architecture. Built in the 16th century between two defensive towers, it was originally owned by the Soardo family and later taken over by the Bembo family in 1618. It’s one of Croatia’s most significant historic buildings and was fully restored in 2012.

Wander the streets a little more and you’ll eventually end up at St. Elizabeth’s Church. Its Romanesque bell tower rises over the rooftops, completing the postcard view.

If you’re dreaming of a slice of Croatia that hasn’t been overtaken by mass tourism, Bale might just be it. The cobbled alleys and quiet corners still hold that untouched feeling, and I hope it stays that way for a while. If you’re passing through to either Rovinj or Pula, make time for a stop here. You won’t regret it.

Once we arrived in Pula, we quickly realized this city has a bit of everything. It’s a mix of ancient history and modern living, but the star of the show is without question the Roman amphitheater.

We spent a couple of hours exploring it top to bottom. Built toward the end of the first century BC, it seats around 22,000 people, which is wild considering only about 5,000 lived in Pula at the time. No one really knows why it was built on such a grand scale, but we’re not complaining, it’s pretty incredible.

The preservation is outstanding. Honestly, it’s in better shape than the Colosseum in Rome. You can climb almost anywhere, which made the visit feel even more immersive. One of the most powerful moments was walking through the underground tunnels. Knowing that gladiators waited down there, about to face either each other or some wild beast, was a pretty sobering experience. There’s also a small museum tucked into those underground spaces that gives a glimpse into what life might have looked like during that era. Definitely worth checking out.

We spent the rest of the day racing around trying to see as much as we could. In hindsight, we should have stayed longer. Pula was one of those places we completely underestimated. Another night or two would’ve made all the difference.We did manage to squeeze in a few other sights though, including the Roman Forum, the Temple of Augustus, the Town Hall, and the Arch of the Sergians.

For our stay, we treated ourselves to an Airbnb practically next door to the amphitheater. It was a bit of a splurge, but we figured with only one night, we might as well enjoy it. And wow—two decks, both with perfect views of the arena. It felt like a dream. We were up early the next day and back on the road to Zadar via Plitvice Lakes, so we didn’t get to soak it all in, but we were really happy with the choice.

I’ll be posting a full apartment review for Pula soon, but in the meantime, if you want the info, feel free to email me. I’m not keeping this one to myself.

🗺️ Explore Pula with Viator – If planning everything yourself feels a bit overwhelming, our friends at Viator have some great options to take the pressure off. They offer everything from easygoing walking tours right on site to full-day adventures. We’ve booked through Viator many times and have always had a great experience. It’s a solid choice if you prefer a bit more structure in your travel days, without the hassle of sorting out every little detail on your own.