April 11, 2025 – Belgrade, Serbia

Waking Up in Belgrade: A Day of Fortresses, Frescoes & Flavour

Our first morning in Belgrade kicked off in the best way possible—with a seriously underrated hotel breakfast at our fabulous Mama Shelter Belgrade. You never quite know what you’re going to get with a “breakfast included” situation, but this one? Total win. A generous buffet spread with freshly squeezed juices, warm eggs, bacon, sausage, flaky buns, fruit, vegetables, granola, yogurts, and—hallelujah—made-to-order coffee. It’s the kind of breakfast that fuels a full day of exploring (and might even make you forget about lunch).

Bundled up against the brisk morning breeze, we turned right out of the hotel and made our way toward Kalemegdan Fortress, practically having the whole place to ourselves. Peaceful, a little moody with the wind, and endlessly atmospheric.

Kalemegdan Fortress: Layers of Time and Stone

This fortress isn’t just Belgrade’s crown jewel—it’s the city’s heart, shaped over centuries by Roman legions, Ottoman rule, and Austro-Hungarian influence. Every path you take reveals a new layer of history: crumbling ramparts, watchtowers, old Turkish baths, and military relics tucked among the trees. The views from here—where the Sava meets the Danube—are cinematic, especially with the bronze Victor Monument towering overhead.

We wandered past the Sahat Tower, peeked into the shadowy depths of the so-called Roman Well, and strolled through the military museum’s open-air display of tanks and weaponry—an eerily poignant reminder of how recent some of these conflicts really are.

But the most stirring part of our morning? Visiting the two churches tucked within the fortress walls: Ružica Church and St. Petka’s Chapel.

Ružica Church: A Sanctuary of Stone and Steel

Ružica Church feels like something out of a fairytale and a war memoir all at once. Its exterior is ivy-covered and inviting, but inside, it tells a raw, reverent story. Originally built as a military chapel, its chandeliers are forged from World War I weaponry—rifles, swords, shell casings—melted down and transformed into objects of light. In front of the church stand two powerful bronze sculptures: a medieval warrior and a Serbian WWI soldier, both cast from cannon shells.

Inside, the frescoes are a true marvel. Painted in 1938 by Russian artist Andrei Bitsenko, they cover the walls and ceilings with saints, rulers, and biblical scenes. One particularly striking composition, the Sermon on the Mount of Olives, even features real historical figures like Tsar Nicholas II and Serbian royalty, a unique merging of faith and history.

Just off the main nave is a small candle room, and this space felt especially meaningful to visit so close to Easter. People quietly filed in to light candles—one for the living, one for the departed—placing them in sand-filled trays as the scent of wax and incense wrapped around us. There was something humbling and communal about it, a quiet ritual in a city still marked by its past but forever leaning toward light. The flame of hope, especially during Holy Week, felt tangible there.

St. Petka’s Chapel: A Miraculous Spring and Mosaic Glory

Just steps away lies St. Petka’s Chapel, built above a spring believed to have healing properties. The current structure was completed in 1937 and is styled like a Serbian medieval church, small and serene. While it originally featured frescoes, those deteriorated, and now the interior glows with incredibly detailed mosaics—tiny, shimmering tiles forming vivid religious scenes that practically hum with energy.

This chapel honors Saint Petka (Paraskeva), a revered ascetic who lived in the Jordan desert. Her relics once resided here, before being taken to Iași, Romania. But her spirit, and the power of her story, seem to linger. There’s an intimacy to the chapel that makes you pause and breathe deeper.

Strolling the Streets: From Holy to Hip

After all that history and heart, we drifted back into the pulse of modern Belgrade and made a detour to the Cetinjska District—a totally different vibe and absolutely worth a visit. Just a short walk from the city center, Cetinjska is a repurposed industrial area that now hums with creativity.

By day, it’s a little quiet, but as night falls, it transforms into a cultural hotspot. Think street art splashed across old factory walls, hidden cocktail bars tucked into courtyards, live music venues, microbreweries, and an effortlessly cool crowd that somehow always knows where to go. It’s Belgrade’s answer to Berlin’s Kreuzberg or London’s Shoreditch—gritty, artsy, and a little chaotic in the best way. If you’re into craft beer, local DJs, or indie gallery vibes, this is your spot.

St. Michael’s & St. Mark’s: More Sacred Beauty

Later in the day, we circled back to visit two of Belgrade’s major churches: St. Michael’s Cathedral (which we can actually see from our hotel window) and the grand St. Mark’s Church in Tašmajdan Park.

St. Michael’s, built in the mid-19th century, is a symbol of Serbian spiritual and political rebirth. Ornate but approachable, it became a cornerstone of the city’s post-Ottoman identity.

St. Mark’s, on the other hand, is massive and imposing, its Serbo-Byzantine architecture towering over the park. It’s filled with golden iconography and houses important relics, yet the interior still feels peaceful and grounding. Even with visitors milling around, there’s a sense of stillness that invites reflection.

Evening Vibes: Beer, Spiderman, and Dinner on the Waterfront

As our feet started to protest, we found ourselves back near the hotel at Boutique 2, where we grabbed a couple of beers and indulged in some top-tier people-watching. Highlight of the afternoon? A Spiderman impersonator who somehow convinced parents to pay for their kids to pose with him. I don’t know what was more entertaining—his barely-held-together costume or the joy on the kids’ faces.

Then it was time for dinner at Ambar, and wow. Just…wow.

Dinner at Ambar: The Art of the Shared Plate

Set on the newly revitalized Sava River waterfront, Ambar is all about small plates, big flavors, and sharing the experience. For just $40 CAD, we had access to unlimited dishes—yes, unlimited. The food? Thoughtfully prepared, bursting with flavor, and beautifully plated.

Here’s what made it to our table:

• Sourdough with Truffles and Kajmak – Light, golden dough balls paired with whipped truffle butter. Hot, crispy, and utterly addictive.
• Prunes from Šumadija – Goat cheese + walnuts + smoked bacon = sweet-savory perfection.
• Greek Salad – Fresh, crunchy, and drizzled with real-deal olive oil. The feta alone was worth it.
• Monastery Chicken – Crispy, nutty coating with a side of apple-wasabi salsa (the only element we didn’t love).
• Pulled Pork – Tender, crispy-edged and served on a bed of mashed potatoes with slaw. Not your typical saucy version—this one lets the meat shine.
• Cevapi – We gave it another try, but nothing quite matches the homemade version our friend makes back home. Still, it’s a staple here and worth tasting.
• Baked Cauliflower – Roasted to caramelized perfection, served on eggplant yogurt and topped with pomegranate seeds. My personal favorite.

We paired everything with a selection of local Serbian wines, all expertly recommended by our server. Dry whites, rich reds, and a crisp rosé—each one a perfect companion to the dishes.

A Cozy Wine Hideaway: Wine Passage

But the night didn’t end there. On the walk back from the waterfront, we made a spontaneous stop at Wine Passage—a little tucked-away wine bar that ended up being one of our favourite discoveries of the day.

Tucked into a narrow alley that feels more like a secret than a street, Wine Passage has that rare kind of charm you stumble into and immediately want to keep all to yourself. The interior is warm and intimate, the kind of space that feels both elevated and welcoming. We each had a couple of glasses of Serbian wine, all chosen by the knowledgeable and genuinely lovely server who was clearly passionate about the local vineyards and varietals.

They didn’t just pour—they told stories. We learned about indigenous grapes like Prokupac and Tamjanika, and tasted the earthy, full-bodied character that defines Serbian reds. Whether you’re a seasoned oenophile or just wine-curious, this place makes you feel at home. No pretension, just great wine and great vibes. We could’ve stayed for hours.

Honestly, Wine Passage is a must-visit if you’re in Belgrade and even remotely into wine. It’s a perfect pre-dinner warm-up or post-dinner wind-down spot.

We ended the night back at the hotel with an Espresso Martini and full hearts (and stomachs). From ancient fortress walls to candlelit chapels, artsy alleyways to riverside dining—Belgrade truly delivered today.

If you ever find yourself in this city, make space in your itinerary for Kalemegdan, Cetinjska, Wine Passage, and Ambar. You won’t regret it.

🧭 Exploring Belgrade with Viator – If you’re the kind of traveler who feels more at ease with a plan in place, Viator is a great place to start. They offer a wide range of tours that take the guesswork out of exploring a new city — from guided walks to full-day excursions and everything in between. It’s a great option if you’d rather leave the organizing to someone else and just focus on enjoying the experience. We’ve used them often and love how easy they make it to discover the highlights without the stress.