After our first night at the lovely Agriturismo Fontana La Pietra, we made our way to Matera. A captivating city in southern Italy, it is home to the remarkable Sassi district, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its ancient cave dwellings carved into the rocks. The steep terrain and harsh geography of the area forced the inhabitants to build their homes directly into the mountain, creating an extraordinary landscape that has fascinated travelers for centuries.
The Fascinating History of Matera’s Sassi
Matera is one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities, only surpassed by Aleppo and Jericho. Its origins date back to prehistoric times, and the Sassi district offers a glimpse into ancient human history. For much of the 20th century, however, Matera’s cave dwellings were a symbol of poverty and neglect. Residents lived without basic amenities like electricity, running water, and sewage. The city was marked by high infant mortality rates and malaria, making it a source of shame for Italy until the 1950s.
Turning Point for Matera
In 1952, the Italian government began a controversial intervention to improve the living conditions in the Sassi. The government relocated thousands of residents from the caves to newly built apartments. The caves were then repurposed as state-owned properties. This change sparked mixed reactions—some felt the caves should have remained in the hands of their original inhabitants, while others still associate the Sassi with painful memories.
Despite these early challenges, Matera’s fortunes changed in the 1990s when it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. The city’s unique troglodyte architecture was praised for its harmony with the surrounding landscape and ecosystem. As a result, Matera’s recognition on the global stage began attracting more visitors.
Matera Today: A City of Contrasts
Today, Matera is a thriving destination for travelers. Its ancient caves have been transformed into luxury accommodations, wine bars, and restaurants, blending the past with the present. We explored two main areas of the Sassi: Caveoso, with its rugged and authentic feel, and Barisano, which has been more extensively restored. Wandering through narrow lanes and staircases, we immersed ourselves in the city’s fascinating history.
A highlight of our visit was the Casa Grotto di Vico Solitario, a preserved cave house that showcases the peasant lifestyle of the 1950s. The house is a living museum, complete with original furnishings like the bread stamp used to identify loaves in communal ovens. The humble living conditions are contrasted by the rich cultural significance of these cave dwellings.
Churches and Scenic Views
Our walk through Matera also led us to its historic churches, such as the Church of San Pietro Caveoso. Built in 1218, this church was renovated several times, with Baroque features added in the 17th century. Unfortunately, we were unable to visit the interior as the church’s visiting hours were quite specific.
Another must-see is the Church of Santa Maria De Idris, perched high above the city with panoramic views. This church, dating back to the 15th century, forms part of a larger rock complex with an ancient crypt. The crypt contains fascinating frescoes spanning several centuries.
A Must-Visit City in Basilicata
Matera is a hidden gem in the Basilicata region, offering travelers a unique experience of ancient history and stunning architecture. Though we didn’t have time to see the city in the evening, with its beautifully lit cave homes, it’s definitely a place I’d love to revisit. For those planning a trip, consider staying in one of the Sassi for a truly unforgettable experience.
