Zagreb to Bled: Speed Traps, Cream Cakes & Unexpected Gems
We waved goodbye to Zagreb and hit the open road, cruising toward the storybook town of Bled. The Croatian highways are smooth and fast—mostly. They do have this little quirk where the speed limit changes on a whim. One minute you’re flying along at 130 km/h, and suddenly you’re in an 80 zone with a speed camera ready to catch anyone not paying attention. So yeah, stay sharp. Other than that, driving in Croatia? A total breeze. Slovenia? Same deal!
As we crossed into Slovenia (easy, just a friendly wave from the border guards), we immediately saw signs for buying a vignette, Slovenia’s version of a toll system. It’s a digital pass you need in order to legally drive on Slovenian highways. For a standard car, a weekly vignette is €16, but prices vary depending on your vehicle type—motorcycles, RVs, vans, and motorhomes all have different rates. They also offer options for different lengths of time: a week, a month, or even a year. So you’ll want to double-check what works best for your trip.
You can buy the vignette online in advance, but you’ll need your car’s registration and license plate info. If you’re renting a car like we were, it’s honestly easiest to just wait and buy it at the border. There’s a clearly marked pull-off to the right where you can park, head into a little kiosk, and take care of it in five minutes. Bring your car registration and a photo of your license plate. Once you’re registered, cameras on the highway will track your plate and confirm you’re good to go. No toll booths, no hassle.
From there, we rolled into Bled.
Quick tip for first-timers: parking in Bled is a hot commodity. The whole town is super walkable, so once you’re parked, you won’t need your car. But parking itself? Not cheap. If you’ve booked a hotel, AirBnB, or pension, go straight there first. See if you can check in early, or at least drop off your car and use their parking. It’ll save you from paying to park all over town like we did. Rookie move.
We ended up paying to park near the main Pletna boat launch, and again when we stopped later at Hotel Park for cake. Double sigh.
Anyway, Bled! This place is pure magic. The lake, the island with the church, the castle on a cliff—it’s like stepping into a postcard. There’s just one road that loops around the lake, and we had no trouble getting in. But we saw what the Easter weekend traffic looked like leaving town, and it was intense. Plan your timing carefully if you’re visiting during peak season.
Now let’s talk Pletna boats. These are traditional wooden boats rowed by absolute legends of oarsmen. They don’t run on a set schedule—they leave when they’re full. You hop on, get ferried over to the island, and they give you about 45 minutes to explore before your boat takes you back. You pay after your return, and you’ve gotta go back with the same boat you came on.
We lucked out. After exploring the island and ringing the church bell (for luck, obviously), we were ready to head back a little early. Just as our oarsman was heading off to pick up another group, he invited us to tag along—for a mini private ride back to a slightly different drop-off spot. We didn’t even hesitate. Front row seats, no one in the way of our photos, and total peace on the water. Yes, please.
Once we were back on land, we wandered the lakeside path, took about a thousand photos from every possible angle, and eventually made our way to Hotel Park to try the legendary Bled Cream Cake. This thing is a national treasure: flaky dough, creamy vanilla custard, whipped cream, and a dusting of powdered sugar. We paired it with a glass of Slovenian dessert wine and let the rain start falling while we ate. Could’ve been a scene from a movie.
Then it was time to check into our hotel—Garni Hotel Berc—which turned out to be a total gem (I took the photos as we were leaving so the bed is more rumpled than it was when we got there – JFYI). Ron had picked it, and I’ll admit, I wasn’t super excited at first. But wow, was I wrong. It’s got all the charm of a cozy Swiss chalet, with warm wood interiors and friendly vibes. Our room was spacious, spotless, and even had a balcony. There’s a free breakfast in the morning (win), and an honour bar where you can pour yourself a drink or grab a snack and just write down what you took. Love that kind of trust system.
By then, the rain was really coming down, so we skipped the castle visit (bummer, but there’ll be others on this trip) and decided to find dinner close by. Enter: The Old Cellar, just up the road. Picture rustic wood beams, intimate corners, and hearty Slovenian food that warms your soul.
Ron went for pork loin with roasted vegetables, and I had the traditional pecenica sausage with cabbage and buckwheat žganci—a nutty, grainy side dish that’s kind of like Slovenia’s answer to polenta. We split a bottle of Klen Art red, a bold, rich blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. Everything about that meal—from the food to the wine to the cozy setting—was perfect.
We ended the night with a couple more glasses back at our hotel, then crawled into one of the comfiest beds we’ve had all trip.
Bled, even in the rain, totally stole our hearts.
