Experience Malta – An Island of History

Posted on by Caroline

September 7, 2022: Arrival in Valletta

Our two month slow travel Malta and Italy holiday began on Malta. To experience Malta, we decided on the two cities of Valletta, and Mdina. After a long journey from Vancouver, via Saskatoon, Montreal, and Rome, we finally arrive in Valletta, Malta. The travel was a bit hectic, with an unexpected fare hike for a taxi ride from Rome’s Fiumicino to Ciampino Airport—taxis in Rome, unfortunately, aren’t known for being tourist-friendly.

Our transfer to Jean de Valette Boutique Living was a bit of a hassle, but we made it to this charming boutique hotel inside the city walls. The hotel requires self-check-in, which was seamless. Our room had a cozy little kitchen, perfect for a longer stay. The only downside? The bathtub shower was a bit impractical, with no shower enclosure, causing water to spill onto the floor.

After settling in to experience Malta, we wandered around the area and enjoyed a bottle of wine and pizza at Galilea Grod Pizza on Merchant Street. The wine was definitely better than the pizza, but both were fairly priced and perfect for a relaxing evening.

September 8, 2022: Hop On, Hop Off Tour – Experience Malta

We decided to hop on the Hop On Hop Off bus to get a feel for the city, hoping to experience Malta’s highlights from a comfortable vantage point. Unfortunately, it wasn’t the best choice—timing was erratic, the audio didn’t sync up, and the bus was crowded due to the cruise ship influx.

Undeterred, we spent the rest of the day wandering Valletta’s charming streets, navigating its famous hills and stairs. If you’re planning to visit, make sure to pack sturdy shoes—Valletta is a walking city! Despite the September heat and humidity, we ended the day with a delicious pizza at Casa Sotto, a cozy family-run spot with fantastic outdoor seating.

Sights

  • Lower Barrakka Gardens – an exquisite public garden with a beautiful view of the Three Cities, and the Grand Harbour.
  • Siege Bell War Memorial – situated in the lower part of the St. Christopher Bastion, this magnificent memorial was erected to honour those who fought for Malta in World War Two. If you time it right, you can hear the bell ring out at midday.
  • Merchant’s Street – filled with cafes, bars, and shops; a great place to grab an Aperol Spritz and people watch.
  • St John’s Co-Cathedral – A must-see when in Valletta! The High Baroque art and architecture here are absolutely stunning, showcasing the style at its finest. There’s so much to take in, with the highlight being the incredible Caravaggio painting of the Beheading of Saint John the Baptist. Make sure to set aside at least an hour or more to fully enjoy the experience!
  • Valletta City Gate – the present gate is the fifth one to have stood on this site, built between 2011 and 2014.
  • The Lascaris War Rooms – The Lascaris War Rooms are an underground network of tunnels and chambers in Valletta, Malta, once serving as the headquarters for the island’s defense during World War II. Afterward, the rooms were used by NATO and are now a museum open to the public, offering a fascinating glimpse into Malta’s wartime history.
  • The Grandmaster Palace – with a history of over 450 years, The Palace offers a fascinating glimpse of into the history of the Crusader Knights, the rise of Malta and it’s fight for Independence.
  • Queen Victoria Statue – raised in 1891 to honour Queen Victoria, this statue was sculopted out of marble by Sicilian artist Giuseppe Valenti and sits in front of the National Library in Republic Square.

September 9, 2022: A Night of Negronis and Music as We Explore Malta

Our adventures exploring Malta continued as we explored more of Valletta. For dinner, we opted for Wagyu Bar and Kitchen, a delicious Japanese restaurant near St. George’s Square. Later, we found ourselves at a nearby bar with a live rock band playing Top 40 hits. The atmosphere was electric—dancing in the street, sipping Negronis, and making new friends. It was a perfect night in Malta.

Sights

  • Basilica of Our Lady of Mount Carmel – This stunning Carmelite church is dedicated to Our Lady of Mount Carmel and is one of the city’s most important landmarks. It’s part of Valletta’s UNESCO World Heritage Site, so you’re definitely soaking in some serious history here.
  • Independence Square – a lovely gathering point in the city. The square is a true gem, lined with beautiful monuments and surrounded by historic buildings that showcase Valletta’s rich architectural heritage. It’s the perfect place to wander along the cobblestone pathways, soak in the stunning views, and snap some amazing photos—definitely a must-visit for any photography lover!
  • Casa Rocca Piccola – A visit to this architectural gem offers a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the Maltese nobility! Built in 1580, the Palace was one of the first noble houses in Valletta, originally called ‘Casa del Giardino’ because it was one of the few properties in the city allowed to have a garden. Still inhabited by descendants of its original aristocratic owner, the palace boasts lavish rooms filled with exquisite furniture, silver, and paintings preserved over the last 400 years. While the palace itself is awe-inspiring, the real intrigue lies in its network of tunnels dating back to World War II. Exploring these hidden passages adds a mysterious touch to this already remarkable site.
  • St. George’s Square – Main square and home to the President’s Palace.
  • Valletta Black Friar’s Experience – The Valletta Black Friars Experience immerses you in 450 years of history tied to the Dominican Community. Explore hidden spaces and view rare artifacts, some of which haven’t been seen for centuries. Learn about the influential brotherhoods and events that helped shape Valletta and the world.

September 10, 2022: Explore Malta in Mdina

After checking out of our hotel in Valletta, we made our way to Mdina, the “Silent City” of Malta. Mdina, steeped in history, is known for its beautiful architecture and medieval charm. Our hotel, the Xara Palace—part of Relais & Châteaux—was simply stunning. From the plush lobby with complimentary Prosecco to our spacious and comfortable room, we were treated like royalty.

Mdina is best explored when the crowds have thinned, which is why an overnight stay is ideal. We spent the evening strolling through its quiet streets, watching the sunset from the city walls. The views from Fontanolla Tea Garden during dinner were incredible, though the food itself was just okay.

Sights

  • Mdina City Gate and Walls – Founded by the Phoenicians around 700 BC, Mdina was originally called Maleth and later became Melite under Roman rule. The city’s medieval walls and gates were reinforced by Grandmaster Vilhena in the 17th century, with the Turri Mastra tower replaced by the Torre dello Standardo.
  • Torre della Standardo – The Torre dello Standardo (Tower of the Standard) is a historic tower in Mdina, Malta, part of the city’s fortifications. Built by the Order of St. John in 1725 on the site of an earlier tower, it was originally used for signaling between Mdina and the rest of Malta. After various iterations, today, it’s well-preserved and serves as a tourist information center.
  • Vilhena Palace – Vilhena Palace in Mdina was built in the late 17th century by Grandmaster António Manoel de Vilhena. The palace features a stunning Baroque design and served as the residence of the Grandmaster. Today, it houses the National Museum of Natural History, showcasing a fascinating collection of Malta’s natural heritage.
  • St. Peter’s Monastery – St. Peter’s Monastery in Mdina is a historic Carmelite complex dating back to the 17th century. It includes a beautiful church and serene cloisters, offering a peaceful atmosphere for visitors. Today, the monastery is still active, with the church remaining a place of worship.
  • St. Agatha’s Church – The original St Agatha church, similar to the Benedictine monastery, dates back to the early 15th century. It was built by the noble family Gatto Murina. The same family also built the church of St Paul in Rabat, the façade of which bears their name. 
  • St. Paul’s Cathedral – St. Paul’s Cathedral in Mdina is a stunning Baroque church built in the 17th century, dedicated to St. Paul, the patron saint of Malta. It features remarkable frescoes, intricate carvings, and a grand dome. The cathedral stands on the site where St. Paul is believed to have preached after being shipwrecked on the island.
  • St. Paul’s Catacombs – St. Paul’s Catacombs in Mdina are an ancient underground burial site dating back to the Roman period. The catacombs feature intricate networks of chambers, tombs, and early Christian symbols. They offer a fascinating glimpse into Malta’s early Christian history and burial practices.
  • Bastion Square – Bastion Square in Mdina offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding countryside and the island of Malta. Located along the city’s fortifications, it’s a popular spot for visitors to relax and take in the scenery. The square is also a great place to admire Mdina’s impressive architecture and historic atmosphere.
  • Greek’s Gate of Mdina – The Greeks Gate in Mdina is one of the city’s historic entrances, dating back to the 16th century. It was named after the Greek influence during the Byzantine period and features a unique design with a curved archway. This gate offers a striking glimpse into Mdina’s rich past and serves as a gateway to the Silent City.

September 11, 2022: Exploring Floriana & Birgu

We transferred to The Grand Excelsior in Floriana for some downtime by the pool—but when the pool turned out to be closed, we decided to experience Malta with further exploration of Valletta, this time from across the other side.

We took a boat across the harbor, and explored Birgu, an area rich with history and charm. The trip was less than 3 EUR each. You can find the boats at the Lascaris Water Taxi Station off of Xatt Lascaris. A secret and not well publicized way down is from the Upper Barrakka. Find the Barrakka lift on the southish side of the park. The cost to ride this lifty is 1 EUR each and well worth the views it affords.

We visited the Fort St. Angelo and enjoyed a relaxed afternoon wandering the streets of this picturesque town. Back at the hotel, dinner was fine but nothing special.

Sights

  • Triton’s Fountain – Triton’s Fountain in Valletta is a striking landmark featuring three bronze statues of Tritons. Located at the entrance to the city, it’s a popular spot for photos and a symbol of Valletta’s connection to the sea.
  • Msida Bastion Cemetery and Historic Garden -Msida Bastion Cemetery and Historic Garden is a peaceful, historic site located just outside Valletta’s walls. It serves as the final resting place for many British and Maltese individuals, with beautiful views and well-maintained gardens that reflect the area’s rich history.
  • Wignacourt Fountain – Wignacourt Fountain in Valletta is an elegant Baroque structure built in the 17th century by Grandmaster Alof de Wignacourt. The fountain was designed to supply fresh water to the city and is known for its intricate stonework and statues. It remains a prominent landmark.
  • Lion Fountain – The Lion Fountain in Valletta is a charming 16th-century fountain located in the heart of the city. It features a series of stone lion statues, symbolizing strength and protection. Originally built to provide fresh water, it remains a notable historical landmark and a beautiful spot for visitors to admire.
  • The Valletta Waterfront – Experience Malta at the Valletta Waterfront – a stunning promenade along the harbor, offering beautiful views of the Grand Harbour and the historic city. It’s lined with beautifully restored 18th-century warehouses that now house shops, restaurants, and cafes. The waterfront is a popular spot for strolling, dining, and enjoying the lively atmosphere, especially when cruise ships dock nearby.
  • St. Publius Church and Square – St. Publius Church and Square in Floriana, just outside Valletta, is a charming historic site. The church, dedicated to St. Publius, Malta’s first bishop, features beautiful Baroque architecture and an impressive interior. The square surrounding the church is a peaceful spot, offering lovely views and a sense of local history.
  • Upper Barrakka Garden – These colonnaded gardens, set high above the Grand Harbour, were designed in the late 16th century as a peaceful retreat for the Knights of the Auberge d’Italie. Offering a tranquil escape from the city’s hustle and bustle, the gardens boast one of the best views in Malta from their balcony. Below, the Saluting Battery once fired cannons in salute to visiting naval ships.
  • Church of Saint Catherine – The Church of St. Catherine of Italy is a Roman Catholic church in Valletta, Malta, built by the Hospitaller Langue of Italy. It serves as the parish church for Malta’s Italian community, offering a peaceful place of worship with beautiful Baroque architecture. Its historical significance and serene atmosphere make it a notable site in the city.

September 12, 2022: Fort Elmo and Last Adventures

Our last day in Malta saw us heading to the famous Fort St. Elmo for a self-guided tour. The fort’s history, especially its role in various wars, was fascinating. We spent our final hours wandering Valletta, soaking in the last of the island’s beautiful sights before heading off to Sicily later that evening.

Sights

  • Fort St. Elmo – Fort St. Elmo is a historic fortress in Valletta, built by the Knights of St. John in the 16th century to defend the Grand Harbour. Today, it houses the National War Museum, showcasing Malta’s military history and offering stunning views of the harbor.
  • The Church of Anne (Fort St. Elmo) – The Church of St. Anne in Fort St. Elmo is a small but historic chapel located within the fortress. It was built in the 17th century and features simple yet beautiful architecture, serving as a place of worship for soldiers and visitors alike throughout the years.
  • National War Museum (Fort St. Elmo) – The National War Museum, located in Fort St. Elmo, showcases Malta’s military history from the medieval period to World War II. The museum’s exhibits include personal artifacts, weaponry, and detailed displays on significant events, such as the Great Siege of 1565 and the island’s role during WWII, providing a fascinating insight into Malta’s strategic importance.
  • Ball’s Bastion – To experience Malta one must add Ball’s Bastion in Valletta, a historic part of the city’s fortifications offering stunning views of the Grand Harbour is a must. It was built in the 16th century by the Knights of St. John and is named after Sir Henry Ball, a British officer. The bastion remains an important landmark, showcasing Malta’s military history and impressive architecture.
  • The Malta Experience – The Malta Experience in Valletta is an engaging audio-visual show that takes visitors through Malta’s rich history, from its prehistoric beginnings to modern times. Located near the city’s entrance, it provides a great overview of the island’s past, with detailed displays and captivating narration. It’s a must-visit for those looking to understand the cultural and historical significance of Malta.

Summary – Our Malta Experience

Overall, our Malta experience was unforgettable! We really found the perfect balance between exploring Valletta and Mdina. If you’re planning a trip, we highly recommend staying in Mdina for at least one night—two is ideal, any more might be a bit much since it’s a smaller city. Valletta, as I mentioned, is definitely a walking city. Be ready to put in some serious miles, with a mix of easy strolls and some pretty steep hills to conquer. All in all, we absolutely loved our time here and definitely recommend experiencing it at least once!

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