A Rainy Road Trip Through Istria: Truffles, Towns, and Tasting Rooms
Our day begins with breakfast at Villa Borgo, and it’s the perfect start. A cheerful spread of deli meats, yogurt, granola, fresh toast, baked goods, juices, and, most importantly, coffee is laid out for guests, with scrambled eggs made fresh to order. We fuel up, readying ourselves for a day of exploration, and are kindly driven down to our car by the lovely Mara, who takes pity on us and the weather. Yes, it’s raining again.
Grožnjan, Drenched but Still Artistic
Exploring in the rain isn’t at the top of anyone’s list, but we pull on our trusty clear ponchos (thank you, Vintgar Gorge), and hit the road. Our first stop is the artist village of Grožnjan, a town we know to be vibrant and alive, just not today. The rain is relentless, turning the normally charming stone streets into a slippery obstacle course. We dart between awnings, duck into a couple of artist studios, and find shelter inside a cozy little distillery shop. Here we try Biska, a traditional Istrian liqueur made from grappa and mistletoe. It’s sweet, strong, and just what we need to take the chill off. After snapping a few rain-framed photos from the town’s famous loggia, we admit defeat and head soggily back to the car.
A Glimmer of Sun in Oprtalj
Our second stop is Oprtalj, and while the rain hasn’t totally cleared, there’s a hopeful brightness trying to break through the clouds. This small town is even quieter than Grožnjan but no less charming. The central square is fronted by a 15th-century church and a tall bell tower, both peacefully closed. Still, the atmosphere is quaint and peaceful, perfect for a short wander before the next leg of our trip.
Buzet: A Slippery Swerve
Next up is the hilltop town of Buzet, also known as the “City of Truffles.” Unfortunately, the rain returns with a vengeance just as we reach the steep stone roads leading up into the old town. Our tires spin helplessly on the slick stone surface while traffic appears in both directions. A quick judgment call: we abort mission. Sometimes discretion really is the better part of valour.
Quiet Moments in Roč
Our route leads us to Roč, a tiny, fortified village that passes us quietly through its ancient gate. Like Oprtalj, it’s mostly deserted in the drizzle, but there’s a stillness here that feels timeless. The small church and bell tower are lovely, though locked up like the rest. We stretch our legs, appreciate the quiet charm, and move along.
Hum: The World’s Smallest Town with Big Personality
We finish our loop in Hum, famously touted as the smallest town in the world. Despite the continued drizzle, Hum is utterly delightful. Stone alleyways overflow with flower pots, and winding lanes invite aimless strolling. We find shelter and lunch at Humska Konoba, a traditional tavern nestled in one of the stone buildings. We warm ourselves with bowls of creamy corn soup and split a plate of sausages, exactly the comfort food needed on a damp day. It’s hearty, flavourful, and a reminder of how Istrian food always delivers.
A Lucky Find: Vina Sirotić Winery
On our way back to Motovun, we spot a small sign for Vina Sirotić and decide to take a detour. Best decision of the day. We’re invited in for a spontaneous wine tasting led by the winemaker’s wife, and the wines are fantastic. We sample their sparkling Malvasia, a classic still Malvasia, Chardonnay, Rosé, and finally their award-winning Teran, which is deep, spicy, and absolutely delicious. Three generations of winemaking have shaped the offerings here, and it shows. We leave with two bottles, Malvasia and Teran, and somehow only spend €18 total. A true hidden gem.
Dinner at Konoba Mondo
Back in Motovun, we dry off and change for dinner at Konoba Mondo. It’s a cozy, welcoming restaurant with friendly staff and a bright, relaxed ambiance. We both (yet again!) order the same dish, pistachio penne with Istrian ham. No regrets. It’s creamy, nutty, and pairs beautifully with the Cabernet Franc suggested by our server. A perfect final meal in Motovun.
Farewell to Motovun
With full bellies and full hearts, we return to Villa Borgo one last time. Tomorrow, we leave for the coast, chasing sunshine and new adventures. Motovun, even through the mist and rain, has been a quiet wonder, full of flavour, warmth, and winding stone stories.
