A Cloudy Arrival in Motovun: Truffles, Views & Timeless Walls
Tucked high above the Mirna River Valley, Motovun, also known by its Italian name, Montona, is one of those rare places that looks like it stepped out of a storybook. Located in central Istria, Croatia, this hilltop village rises nearly 300 meters above the surrounding countryside, its stone houses spilling down the slope like they’ve been there forever. And in a way, they kind of have.
A Town with Ancient Roots
Long before modern life crept into these hills, the Celts and Illyrians built ancient fortresses here, drawn by the natural vantage point and fertile lands. Fast forward to 1278, and Motovun found itself under Venetian rule, a turning point that forever shaped the town’s architecture and spirit.
The Venetians surrounded the town with formidable stone walls, many of which still stand strong today, complete with battlements and towers that can still be climbed for sweeping views of the Istrian countryside.
Wandering the old town, you’ll find signs of its layered past everywhere: coats of arms etched into the inner walls, Roman gravestones from the 1st century, and city gates showcasing a blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance styles built between the 14th and 17th centuries.
A Warm Welcome to Villa Borgo
Today, Motovun has just 531 permanent residents. Quiet and car-free, it’s known for its panoramic views, cobblestone charm, and, most famously, for being at the heart of truffle country. The hills surrounding the town are also home to small, family-run vineyards producing local favorites like Malvazija and Teran.
We arrived under a soft drizzle. The sky hung low as we parked outside the town walls—Motovun is pedestrian-only—and called our hotel, Villa Borgo. Within minutes, a friendly staff member picked us up and helped with our bags, saving us the uphill climb with luggage in tow.
Villa Borgo is just as charming as you’d hope. Our room overlooked the old city gate, and just down the hall, a terrace with tables and chairs offered a stunning view of the valley below. The staff were warm and full of great suggestions, including one we were happy to hear: the rain should let up just in time for sunset, and walking the walls at golden hour was highly encouraged.
Planning Ahead for Dinner
Once settled in, we set out to explore and scope out our dinner options. We quickly landed on Pod Voltom, a cozy restaurant tucked right into the old city wall. Its terrace would have been perfect on a dry evening, but with more rain threatening, we reserved a spot inside the warm, rustic tavern instead.
With tonight’s dinner sorted, we headed to Konoba Mondo and made a reservation for the following evening. Good thing too, since a group of cyclists was rolling into town and filling up tables fast.
We spent the rest of the afternoon meandering through Motovun’s tiny streets and stone alleyways, marveling at how locals navigate the narrow roads by car. Watching two vehicles pass each other is like watching a slow-motion dance; forward, reverse, forward again.
Outside the town gate, local artisans and vendors had set up small wooden stalls offering handmade jewelry, olive wood carvings, and bottles of locally made olive oil, spirits, and wine. The sun made a brief appearance, lighting up the booths and drawing out that fresh post-rain scent from the stones beneath our feet.
The Main Square & a Sunset Beer
Back inside the walls, we wandered into Motovun’s main square. Anchored by a large church and bell tower, it’s a quiet, contemplative space that somehow feels both grand and intimate. We followed the main lane to the entrance of the town walls and learned that access tickets are sold at the Wall Street Pub, just beside the gate.
With time to spare before dinner, we grabbed a quick beer and sat outside, watching the last of the clouds lift as the sky began to change color.
Truffles, Asparagus, and a Perfect Pairing
Dinner at Pod Voltom turned out to be a celebration of the season. We had arrived during white asparagus season, and black truffle season was in full swing. (White truffle season starts later in the year, typically in September.)
We both ordered the same meal: a rich, velvety cream of asparagus soup followed by a perfectly cooked beefsteak topped with black truffles and served alongside buttery mashed potatoes. At the suggestion of our server, we paired the meal with a bottle of Tomaz Teran, a bold, full-bodied local wine that matched the intensity of the truffles beautifully.
Every bite was pure comfort, earthy and indulgent in the best way. And as it turned out, perfectly timed.
Golden Hour from the City Walls
Stepping out of the restaurant, we found ourselves under a peach-colored sky, the sun beginning its slow descent over the valley. We made our way to the old fortifications and passed through the turnstile at the Wall Street Pub.
The town walls are an easy walk—flat and level all the way around. Even after a big meal, it was relaxing, not demanding. Every few feet brought a new vantage point: vineyards unfurling across the hills, layers of farmland and forest, distant hilltop towns glowing in the last light of day.
Motovun’s rooftops blushed in the sunset, and the air was still and cool. It was one of those rare moments that feels completely unhurried. We walked slowly, pointing out distant landmarks, sharing thoughts about the day, and simply soaking it all in.
Savvy Scoop: the walls are free to walk during winter and after 6:00 p.m. in the warmer months. Otherwise, it’s just $3 USD, a small price for the views you’ll get.
Looking Ahead: More Hilltop Towns to Discover
As the sun finally dipped below the horizon, we started looking forward to tomorrow’s journey. We plan to explore a few more of Istria’s picturesque hill towns: the artsy streets of Grožnjan, the quiet stone charm of Oprtalj, the historic village of Roč, and Buzet, which proudly calls itself the City of Truffles.
If Motovun has taught us anything, it’s that Istria knows how to slow you down and sweep you off your feet, all at the same time.
