A Taste of Trieste – Castles, Cathedrals & Carbs
Our fourth time in Italy brought us somewhere completely new: the charming seaside town of Trieste, nestled snugly at the crossroads of Italy, Slovenia, and Croatia. This little gem had been on our radar for a while, and after falling in love with our newest favorite city—Ljubljana—we decided to drive down for a two-night stay, taking the scenic route through Slovenia.
Our first stop? The awe-inspiring Predjama Castle, which feels like something out of a fantasy novel. This incredible structure is built directly into the mouth of a cave, perched halfway up a 123-meter cliff. It’s the largest cave castle in the world and dates back over 800 years! Once home to the legendary knight Erazem Lueger, Slovenia’s own Robin Hood, the castle is full of hidden passages and rich history, including tales of Erazem outwitting his enemies during a long siege by using a secret tunnel for supplies.
From there, we wound our way toward Castello di Miramare, just outside Trieste. This fairytale castle was commissioned in the 19th century by Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Austria and sits dramatically on a cliff overlooking the Adriatic Sea. We’d planned to visit on our way into town, hoping to avoid doubling back. But being Easter Monday, it was absolutely packed. So, we decided to try again the on our way out of town in a couple of days when the crowds might be thinner.
Just fifteen minutes later, we arrived at The Modernist Hotel, our cozy base for the next two nights. Right in the heart of the city, it’s ideally located within walking distance of just about everything. Valet parking is a godsend if you’re road-tripping like us. The rooms are compact but spotless, with sleek, minimal decor, and there’s a stylish little bar/café downstairs that we’d definitely recommend for a nightcap.
Once we dropped our bags, we hit the streets to get our bearings. First stop: the Roman Amphitheater. Dating back to the 1st century AD, this well-preserved site once held up to 6,000 spectators and was buried for centuries before being rediscovered in the 1930s. It’s a humbling reminder of how long this city has been a cultural crossroad.
From there, we wandered past the Giant’s Staircase, a grand marble stairway that connects Piazza della Cattedrale with the old town. It’s a workout, but we were rewarded with sweeping views after climbing the hill to Trieste Cathedral (San Giusto) and the Castle of San Giusto. The cathedral is a beautiful blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, dating back to the 14th century, built on the site of an earlier Roman temple. The adjoining castle, constructed by the Habsburgs in the 15th century, offers panoramic views of the city and coastline from its ramparts.
Savvy Scoop: If you’d rather not climb, there’s a public elevator you can take to the castle! It’s located on Via del Castello, just near the base of the hill. The elevator is free and open from 8 AM to 8 PM, depending on the season; perfect for skipping the steps but still catching those epic views.
As the sun began to dip, we descended into the heart of the city and found ourselves in Piazza Unità d’Italia, Italy’s largest seaside square. It’s an absolute stunner, surrounded by grand buildings like the Town Hall (Palazzo del Municipio), Palazzo del Lloyd Triestino, and the Prefecture Palace. The square opens directly onto the sea, making it a truly unique spot to soak in some history and sea breeze at once.
To our delight, at the waterfront end of the square, we stumbled upon a lively adult dance class in full swing. The participants were gracefully moving to the rhythm of 19th-century dances, including the waltz and mazurka. This impromptu performance was organized by the Società di Danza di Trieste, a cultural association dedicated to preserving and promoting historical dance forms. Their passion and energy added a magical touch to the evening, making our stroll through the square even more memorable.
Dinner was at Restaurant Navigando, a cozy spot not far from the square. Ron had the penne with ragu (which he raved about), while I opted for spaghetti with burrata and basil—good, but his was definitely the winner. Afterward, we popped into a local wine bar for a glass of something regional (Trieste is very proud of its Friulian wines), and strolled back to the hotel under the glow of the lamplights.
A perfect start to our time in Trieste.
