I’m genuinely excited to kick off our first #ITK (In The Know) feature, and honestly, if I weren’t excited about it, I probably wouldn’t be writing about it! And this little gem in Split, Croatia, is exactly the kind of spot I love sharing: hiding in plain sight, passed by thousands, and known by only a few.
Chances are, if you’ve visited Split, you’ve already laid eyes on this place without even realizing it. Most people walk right underneath it. Literally.
Let me introduce you to the beautiful St. Martin’s Church. It is one of the smallest churches in the world, perched above the Golden Gate in the northern wall of Diocletian’s Palace.
It’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it kind of entrance; just a simple doorway built into the thick stone of the palace. But once you step inside and climb a narrow flight of stairs, you’re suddenly in a 1.54-meter-wide sanctuary (yep, less than 5 feet!) that stretches just 10 meters long. It may be small, but what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in atmosphere and history.
The space was originally a guard passage when the palace was a Roman military fortress in the 4th century. But by the 6th or 7th century, it was transformed into a place of worship, dedicated to St. Martin of Tours, a Roman soldier-turned-saint known for choosing faith over a military career. That little historical twist feels especially appropriate, given the church’s location above a former military gate.
And here’s the part that really blew me away: inside, you’ll find a remarkably well-preserved 11th-century sacral arch, one of the best-preserved examples from the early medieval Christian world. It rests above the altar like a quiet guardian of the past, alongside a pre-Romanesque chancel screen and even a 13th-century inscription still visible on the stone wall.
It’s not flashy. It’s not on most tourist maps. But it’s deeply moving.
So, when in Split exploring Diocletian’s Palace, take a moment. Step through that small doorway near the right-hand side of the Golden Gate, climb those timeworn steps, and pause inside one of Split’s best-kept spiritual secrets.
Small in size, big in soul.
How to Get There
Pass through the Golden Gate (Porta Aurea) into Diocletian’s Palace. Take your immediate right into the arched passage, and then turn right again at the end. Immediately in front of you is a small set of stairs. Climb the stairs: Ascend the 38 steep steps to reach the entrance of St. Martin’s Church .
Entrance Fee – €1
