Morning Magic at Miramare & a Seaside Sojourn in Piran
Morning has broken, and with it, we’re finally making our way back to Castello di Miramare, a place we tried to visit on a very different kind of day: Easter Sunday. Back then, the long, sweeping driveway into the castle grounds was teeming with visitors, a flurry of springtime holiday energy. Today? It’s nearly empty. Peaceful. The drizzle has a soft touch to it, and above us, the Adriatic sky seems caught in a quiet battle between sun and cloud. As we walk the tree-lined path that leads toward the castle, the sea to our left glimmers, still and glassy, as if holding its breath.
We opt for the audio tour inside the castle, and let me tell you, it’s well worth the extra €4. The stories that echo through these grand halls are as fascinating as the rooms themselves.
Castello di Miramare: A Dream on the Adriatic
Perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop just outside Trieste, Castello di Miramare looks like something out of a fairytale. Surrounded by lush, manicured gardens and overlooking the calm blue waters of the Adriatic Sea, this 19th-century castle is equal parts romantic fantasy and imperial grandeur.
From the moment you approach the castle, whether through the long, tree-lined driveway or along the coastal walking path, you’re greeted by its striking white limestone façade. Built between 1856 and 1860, the castle combines Gothic, Medieval, and Renaissance architectural elements, all wrapped up in the style known as Romantic Historicism. It’s grand, but not overbearing, ornate, yet tasteful. And it seems to glow, especially on overcast or misty days, when the contrast between stone and sea creates a dreamlike scene.
Designed by Carl Junker for Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Habsburg, the castle was intended to be a private residence, a tranquil retreat far from the political intrigues of Vienna. Maximilian, an avid sailor and commander of the Austrian Navy, chose this very location because of its proximity to the sea and its sweeping views of the Gulf of Trieste.
The Grounds and Gardens
Before you even step inside, the grounds themselves are worth the visit. The castle is enveloped by 22 hectares of botanical gardens, filled with winding paths, fountains, exotic plants from around the world, and even rare tree species that Maximilian imported personally, some by ship during his naval expeditions. At various points in the garden, you’ll find hidden gazebos, sea-facing benches, and quiet corners that make it feel like a secret romantic garden rather than a royal estate.
Inside the Castle
Inside, the castle is a time capsule of 19th-century aristocratic life. Nearly all the rooms are preserved exactly as they were when Maximilian and his wife Charlotte lived there, giving visitors a rare, intimate glimpse into their daily lives. Rich wood-paneled walls, gilded mirrors, silk-covered furnishings, and imperial portraits are everywhere, but perhaps the most personal space is Maximilian’s study, designed to resemble the interior of a naval ship’s cabin, a nod to his lifelong passion for the sea.
The rooms are arranged to highlight the couple’s lifestyle, with separate but adjacent apartments for Maximilian and Charlotte. There are elegant reception halls, cozy salons, and a library filled with nautical maps and scientific volumes.
The audio guide enhances the experience with stories of their time here; Maximilian’s dream of building a peaceful home, and Charlotte’s love for the dramatic views and the castle’s artistic details. But there’s an unmistakable undercurrent of tragedy: their brief years of happiness at Miramare ended with Maximilian’s ill-fated journey to Mexico and Charlotte’s eventual descent into mental illness after his execution.
Today, Castello Miramare is a national museum, drawing visitors from around the world who come to soak in the atmosphere, learn its fascinating history, and take in one of the most beautiful sea views in all of Italy. From the balcony, you can see ships gliding across the bay, and on a clear day, even the outline of Slovenia and Croatia in the distance.
Whether you’re a history buff, a romantic, or simply someone who appreciates a good view and a story to go with it, Miramare has something magical to offer.
After our tour, we say farewell to the ghosts of Miramare and head toward our next destination, Piran, a hidden jewel on the Slovenian coast.
The drive along the coast is picturesque and calming, a ribbon of road hugging the sea. Soon we’re winding into Piran, one of Slovenia’s most beloved coastal towns. We’re staying at Hotel Piran, perched right on the water, with the town square on one side and the rocky point stretching out to sea on the other. Though we’re early for check-in, the lovely staff lets us drop our bags and sets us free to wander.
The promenade is alive with life, cafés and restaurants line the waterfront, their tables promising coffee, wine, and views that soothe the soul. We decide to get a little lost, intentionally, among the town’s narrow alleyways and winding stone lanes. It’s like stepping into a Mediterranean painting, each corner revealing ivy-covered walls, carved wooden doors, and windows filled with geraniums.
Eventually, our steps take us upward towards Piran’s iconic bell tower, standing sentinel above the rooftops.
Piran’s Bell Tower: A View Worth the Climb
The bell tower is part of St. George’s Parish Church, a baroque beauty that overlooks the town like a protective guardian. We pay the €3 entry (plus another €1 to ring the bell if you’re feeling bold. Yes, really!), and begin our ascent. Ninety-nine steep wooden steps later, we’re rewarded with a jaw-dropping panorama. On one side, the red-roofed town spirals around Tartini Square, and on the other, the Adriatic stretches into forever.
It’s windy at the top, but worth every step. The bell, massive and ancient, sways gently in the breeze. The view makes you feel small in the best way, a part of something older, slower, and more beautiful.
Back down in Tartini Square, we find a sunny spot and settle in with a classic Aperol Spritz. This square is the heart of Piran, named for the town’s most famous son, Giuseppe Tartini, an 18th-century violinist and composer. A statue in his honor stands tall in the center of the square, his legacy still echoing in the music festivals held here today. Once the harbour, the square was filled in and transformed in the 19th century, now ringed with charming Venetian-style buildings and lively cafés.
As the golden hour settles in, we decide on our dinner destination: Restavracija Neptun. A local favorite, and tonight’s perfect pick.
A Seabass Supper at Neptun
If you come to this part of the Adriatic, you simply must try the seabass, a signature dish of the Trieste-Gulf region. At Neptun, the seabass is served a few different ways, but we go for the classic: grilled simply with a touch of salt and olive oil, accompanied by rice, a crisp salad, and a dry white wine.
Our server suggests a Slovenian dry Riesling, and we’re more than happy to go with the expert’s choice. It turns out to be a perfect pairing as it was minerally, balanced, and bright enough to elevate the delicate fish. We toast to the sea, the town, and the good fortune of a well-ordered meal.
Next to us, a friendly Austrian gentleman strikes up a conversation. As travellers tend to do, we dive into the universal topics: politics, the environment, and the places that have captured our hearts. He has stories from British Columbia, our own stomping ground, and recommends we try the local herbal liqueur: Pelinkovac.
Pelinkovac: Slovenia’s Bitter Secret
A deep, dark digestif made with wormwood and other herbs, Pelinkovac is not for the faint of heart. It’s bitter, unapologetically so, but it’s also an acquired taste that locals swear by for digestion. Skeptical? So were we, but curiosity won. And yes, we finished our shot (with ahem mixed feelings). Worth trying? Absolutely. Would I order a second? TBD. 😂
We cap off the evening back at our hotel, Hotel Piran, where the on-site wine shop is hosting a tasting. It feels like a hidden gem, no fanfare, just two vinotecas, each with five bottles ready to sample.
Slovenian Wine: A Hidden Treasure
We each purchase a five-wine tasting and decide to share, doubling our experience. The wines are entirely Slovenian, from coastal whites and rosés, to orange wines (yes, orange!), and bold, characterful reds. The woman running the tasting is enthusiastic and knowledgeable, walking us through the terroirs of Slovenia, from the Karst Plateau to the Vipava Valley.
The standouts? A golden-hued Malvazija, crisp and floral, and a complex Refošk (deep red with notes of plum and spice). Slovenian wine may be under-the-radar, but it’s a serious contender on the world stage.
We drift back to our room, a little buzzed, a lot happy, and totally charmed by this corner of the world.
